Fashion
What Is Your Footprint’s Footprint?
Many of us have started to notice the marathon runners training in our neighborhoods, their dedication something to be admired, as they pound the pavement every day, at odd hours and in inclement weather, just to ensure they are ready to do their best on race day. I wish I had that type of commitment for running. A love for the rush, the high some of these runners talk about, but it isn’t in me. When the weather is nice I like to run trails, or along the beach, occasionally, I will hit pavement, but the joy for me is being outside in nature. As someone who tries to consider the environment in everything she does, I have always considered running to be a low environmental impact recreation. After reading some recent studies, I realized that I was wrong.
Runner’s World Magazine did an analysis on the average serious runner’s carbon footprint, with the help of the Bonneville Environmental Foundation, and the results were astonishing. Between the gear and travel to races or favorite running locations, the average serious runner is producing 5,449 lbs of CO2 a year. Even for the novice or recreational runner, these are numbers to consider. So, how can we reduce these numbers? The first steps are understanding them. Travel and plastic water bottles have obvious alternatives, use stainless and carpool as often as you can. What about the gear though? You need shoes and clothes, right?
A study by International Consumer Research and Testing found that the running shoe has an astonishing environmental impact due to the very nature of its supply chain. The average running shoe is made up of nearly 50 components, each of which were likely made at a different location until finally being hand assembled in an assembly factory. Aside from this, the processes used create huge amounts of discarded waste materials and many of the components themselves are potentially hazardous. Three examples ICRT list in their report are :
- Production waste in the form of metallic fabric cuttings and tissue fabric cuttings can contaminate the surrounding environment if an effective environmental management system (EMS) is not in place.
- A key component of any running shoe is the sole, which itself consists of three distinct layers – the insole, midsole and outsole. The insole is normally made of man-made ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) foam. EVA foam is non-biodegradable.
- A Greenpeace report, ‘Slaughtering the Amazon’, examines how the global shoe industry’s appetite for leather is a major contributor to tropical deforestation. The Amazon rain forest is being cleared at an alarming rate, often illegally, to make way for cattle ranchers in Brazil. Tree felling and burning releases vast amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere and contributes to climate change.
I know this sounds awful. What I am not suggesting is that we all give up something we love, but rather, what can we do to reduce the footprint of our very footprints? Ten years ago, it would have been near impossible to choose sustainable when it came to a running shoe. Now, the shoe manufacturers are a different breed of people. They recognize the need for environmental stewardship, at least some of them do. Here are two of our favorites:
Green Silence by Brooks Sports, Inc.
According to their site, the Green Silence is “a groundbreaking competition racing flat that boasts a sustainable element in each part of the shoe. Using soy-based inks, water-based adhesives, and recycled materials, Green Silence incorporates sustainability—without sacrificing performance—into every stitch of the shoe.” Well, that sounds promising! Brooks has been an innovator in sustainable running shoe design for a few years now, their proprietory midsole, the BioMoGo, is the worlds first biodegradeable midsole. It breaks down 50 times faster than a traditional midsole when in an enclosed active landfill. They also created a 100% recycled box.
Green Silence was constructed with less than half (48 percent) as many parts as comparable shoes. Only 26 parts comprise each Green Silence shoe compared to approximately 54 parts in similar styles. And, more than 75 percent of the 26 components have been recycled by consumers. For example, heel counters are made of recycled compact discs; shoe laces, meshes, linings, gillies, and tongue webbings are made from recycled water bottles; and outsoles are made of recycled rubber. These substitutions reduce the energy (41 percent less) and oil (.5 liter less) needed to manufacture each pair of Green Silence shoes.
The dyes, colorants, and adhesives used in production are non-toxic and not harmful to those working in the factory. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) were lowered by 65 percent. The midsoles, collar foams, and sock liners are completely biodegradable, which reduces waste when the shoes are eventually retired to an active, enclosed landfill.
Five Fingers by Vibram
The reduction in components alone makes this shoe a great choice for the eco conscious. Utilizing the theory of barefoot technology to correct one’s bio-mechanics, these shoes helped me shave 2 minutes off my miles. My miles were slow, so I am not suddenly running alongside accomplished runners, but I am running more efficiently and with less impact and pain on my body. They are versatile and I use them for running, hiking, biking and walking around town. The look is something to get used to, but your feet and the environment will thank you for reconsidering what is fashionable and choosing a product that is more “green.”
As a company, Vibram is working hard to reduce their carbon, and even offset the remainder, in a quest to become carbon nuetral. They utilize renewable energies such as wind power and solar whenever possible, and all of their marketing and promotional materials are made with recycled or sustainably-minded materials. One of their most sustainably minded business practices is simply the creation of durable products that withstand rugged beatings. While they aren’t perfect, they are really looking at ways to make their massive imprint as small as possible.
Now you have some shoes, what else do you need? Patagonia is the leader in transparent supply chain manufacturing and sustainable business practices. Their recycled, and recyclable, Capilene® products are great base layers and outer layer zip-necks for any activity, however, they are greatly appreciated by runners everywhere for their excellent insulation and wicking qualities. Check out the Patagonia site for a detailed product footprint on any item in the Capilene® line.
So, now that we are all geared up, all we have to do is motivate ourselves to step away from the laptop, strap on those shoes and head outside. Right? Now, if you have a dog, don’t forget to bring him/her. They love to run and can be great personal trainers and coaches. Hope to see you on the trails.
Fashion design contest
We just received notice of this great contest for fashion designers. The deadline is coming up – so read now and get sewing! Or send to a friend that may already be making eco-conscious clothing. Pass it on!
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From substance for FASHION CONSCIOUS PEOPLE:
We are looking for designers that share our passion for contemporary fashion and design that demonstrates respect for our magnificent planet.
Each month our in house team produces the Design Lab Collection TM in harmony with our no waste philosophy. Our Design Lab Collection TM is always made from the re-purposed material of our overstocks or discontinued styles.
In March, we are giving an aspirant designer the opportunity to showcase their talent on our monthly Design Lab Collection TM platform. The designer we select will gain tremendous exposure for his/her talent in an upscale boutique setting and on our website, as well as a monetary grant of $1,000.00.
Your goal, should you be selected as one of our three finalists, is to produce a four-piece collection using materials that we provide you with to re-purpose into high quality, wearable design.
All interested applicants should complete the attached application and submit it on or before the deadline of February 14, 2009.
ELIGIBILITY
• Applicants must be 18 years of age or older
• All interested applicants must complete the attached application and submit it on or before the deadline of February 14, 2009
TO APPLY:
• Submit the contest application via mail, email, or in person at our store front location: Substance, 783 North High Street, Columbus, OH 43215 PDF: Substance Contest Application
• Your application must include images of three samples of your most recent work. Include an image of the front, back, and a detail shot that shows the quality of the workmanship of your design. Your samples may include apparel and/or handbags.
RULES AND OBJECTIVES IF CHOSEN AS A FINALIST
• Along with two other finalists, the designer we select will have five weeks to complete a four piece apparel or accessory collection with an innovative visual use of language.
• The theme or inspiration for all four pieces in the finalist collections is “What gives fashion meaning?”
• All designs produced for the judging in this competition will become the property of Substance for
FASHION CONSCIOUS PEOPLE, LLC
• The top three finalists will be competing in the design and sewing of a 4 piece collection of high quality, wearable styles from repurposed materials. At least 80% of each piece in the collection will need to be created with materials from garments and handbags that we provide. The remaining 20% of the materials used in each piece can be purchased new. Although, we do encourage the use of all natural materials or redesign from 100% recycled materials.
• The finalists’ four piece collections make up can be one of the following ways:
A size run (S/M/L/XL) of one garment category (such as a group of four dresses)
A four-piece collection of styles from different categories that work worn together or are just as compelling sold as separates.
Substance Aspiring Designer Application
You can submit this contest application via mail, email, or drop off in person at our store front location on or before the DEADLINE of February 14, 2009.
Please attach images of three samples of your most recent work. Include an image of the front, back, and a detail shot that shows the quality of the workmanship of your design. Your samples may include apparel and/or handbags
Name:________________________________________________________
Address:______________________________________________________
City:_____________ State:________________ Zip:_________
Home Phone Number:_____________________________
Cell Phone Number:_______________________________
Briefly, in 300 words or less, please tell us about yourself.
• Tell us what inspires you to design.
• Include information about how long you have been designing and your aspirations in the field.
• Describe one way you feel the fashion industry could do a better job of preserving the environment.
Applications can be mailed to, dropped off at our location below or emailed to christinag@shopsubstance.com
Our mailing address is:
Substance for FASHION CONSCIOUS PEOPLE
783 North High Street
Columbus, Ohio 43215
614.299.2910
We at Substance would like to hear from other designers who share our passions. To learn more about us, visit our website.
If you have any questions or comments please don’t hesitate to call, send an email or come in and see us!
Miss Vermont sports a gown by Tara Lynn
The gown, designed by Tara Lynn (D2E exhibitor), is made of hemp and silk, the bodice and cascade accented with gold lace from a recycled curtain and then encrusted with recycled beads and sequins.
We were excited to hear that Miss Vermont 2008 wore a gown designed by Tara Lynn, one of our fashion exhibitors at D2E. What a great way to bring sustainable fashion to a wider audience.
Miss Vermont 2008, Ashley Wheeler, is putting the final touches on her preparation for the Miss America pageant in January. She has fine tuned her vocal piece with the help of a local coach; she has been grilled by panels of “mock” interview judges, and has met regularly with a personal trainer. This week she is picking up her custom-made evening gown from eco designer Tara Lynn… and the cool thing is that this gown was not made in New York or California, but rather in Sutton, Vermont. And it’s green – not forest green or sage green, but green the concept – it’s an eco-friendly dress made of hemp and silk, and lined with hemp and organic cotton.
“I was raised as part of a family-run business and I understand how important it is to support locally-owned and operated businesses. So when it came time for me to purchase an evening gown for the Miss America pageant, I decided to keep my business in Vermont and call upon a designer from the Northeast Kingdom. I had heard about Tara Lynn and it was very appealing to go “green” for Miss America. I will be making a significant statement and suspect I will be the only contestant who has chosen to go this route. I think this is the perfect way for me to share my stance on preserving our environment and set myself apart from the other contestants.”
Tara Lynn Scheidet, owner of Tara Lynn, is a talented and innovative designer, and is said to be the poster child for sustainable business in Northern Vermont. Her unique collections are inspired by and dedicated to environmental causes. Tara Lynn’s studio runs off solar electricity. The shelves are stocked with vintage and recycled materials collected over years of yard sale shopping. The ceiling is adored with inspirational pictures hung over a floor of antique sewing machines. Since the company started in 2005 it has become a team of talented women. They all stand behind the same mission to increase awareness of biodiversity, promote sustainability and be proud of what they do and the clothing they make.
The designer of Miss Vermont’s evening gown shares, “Beauty is not artificial. Natural clothing is sexier than lifeless textiles made from hazardous materials. When women wear my clothes I want them to feel exuberant and special rather than objects of desire: strong, smart and powerful. Stylish sexy women set the example for the next generation.”
As a representative of America’s #1 scholarship provider for young women and an organization whose mission is to promote personal and professional development, civic consciousness, service, higher education, and integrity, Ashley Wheeler believes she has found the “perfect fit.”
Meet Shana Yansen: Jute & Jackfruit
“Ask, ‘How can this be done better?’ Then do it better.”
Jute and Jackfruit founder, Shana Yansen, once squeezed a scorpion to death with her bare hands. How could we not interview her?
Okay, first things first. The question we ask everyone: how would you explain your business to a five year old?
We sell clothing, jewelry and gifts that are good for the environment, but we also help the people around the world that make them. I also write two blogs.
Do you think a five year old would know what a blog is?
Depends on the five year old, but some are probably “tweeting” already.
What are your blogs about?
My company blog highlights the designers, products and the mission of Jute & Jackfruit. My other blog Green Cotton is focused on raising awareness about the importance of organic versus conventional agriculture, plus eco-fashion and organic textiles.
OK, before we move on, tell us about this scorpion and could it possibly have any relationship to Jute & Jackfruit?
Well, years ago while I was living in Honduras, I accidentally grabbed (and crushed) a scorpion in my hand. The scorpion happened to be hidden in the mosquito net I was folding. I will never forget that moment, nor the hours of sheer numbness that followed. However, I would also add that while there were many life-changing and memorable moments during my service in the Peace Corps in Honduras (including the scorpion!), that it was working with local women’s groups and artisans that impacted me the most, and that first led to the idea for Jute & Jackfruit.
So, you’re probably a little too familiar with all of the “green washing” out there. As a genuine eco-conscious business owner, what do you do to reduce Jute & Jackfruit’s global footprint?
At Jute & Jackfruit, we source organic and sustainable fabrics for our clothing, and we also place strict environmental (and fair trade) criteria on the jewelry and accessories we carry. For example, one of our core clothing designers is Indigenous, a pioneer in fair trade and certified organic cotton knits. A good environmentally sustainable example in our jewelry collection is AnnaBuilt, which is handmade by Brooklyn-based artist Anna Johansson from unique, recycled metals. We also have Nahui Ollin handbags made from factory over-run and misprinted candy wrappers.
Wow, candy wrappers? How does that work?
Using Mayan weaving techniques, the designer handbags are woven by Mexican artisans using wrappers that would otherwise be burned or sent to a landfill. We have some great photography on our Web site.
Speaking of wrappers, I know packaging is a big issue for eco-conscious retailers. How do you handle it?
We spent months trying to find eco-friendly packaging materials! Our postcards, clothing tags and other materials are all made on recycled paper, most of which are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified. We also source recycled content gift-wrapping, such as tissue paper, boxes and ribbon. We use biodegradable plastic bags for garments (when additional bags are needed to protect from the elements) and recycle our boxes for shipping. We are also developing reusable fabric gift wrap for the holidays made from over-run and unused fabrics. In general, we are constantly looking into ways to reduce our impact. We are currently exploring carbon-offsetting for our shipping among other initiatives.
Impressive! Now, how about as an individual?
I started riding a bicycle last year and ride it almost everywhere now, including trips to the grocery store with my pannier bags. I also gave up water bottles and improved my recycling habits. For the last few years, my husband and I have participated in a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture). This year, we joined Picadilly Farm, a New Hampshire-based farm that has a local pick-up location. We really make a conscious effort to shop locally.
What habit was surprisingly easy to change … and what was the hardest?
The easiest to change was bringing my own bags to the grocery store and other places; the hardest was giving up water bottles. As someone who has always been an avid water drinker and is frequently on the go, I used to grab a disposable plastic bottle and go. With consistent and conscious effort, I gradually moved away from this practice. I stopped buying bottles and now bring a reusable Sigg or bicycle bottle with me.
I love my Sigg water bottle, too. In fact, I got it at D2E last year. Which segues nicely into our last question: why did you decide to participate in D2E?
My experience with similar green events is that they provide wonderful opportunities to strengthen the local eco-conscious community, and I believe D2E will do that for the Boston area. Plus, my impression is that D2E is going to be a fun-filled weekend with a remarkable line up of speakers, videos and events—including the eco-fashion shows, eco-living seminars, tasty organic marketplace and green-conscious exhibitors.
You are exactly right.
Interview by Anna Goldsmith of The Hired Pens
I’m thankful for conscious fashion
Deborah Lindquist, available at Suneri in Davis Square.
On the week of thanksgiving one might consider it odd to blog about fashion. But I have learned through life that fashion is about more than being trendy. Fashion is an important aspect of our culture. Fashion helps define us as individuals and as a community. Fashion matters.
This past week I attended a fashion show at Simmons College that was titled Fashion with Impact. The theme was sustainability and I loved that they talked about entrepreneurship as well. We can’t expect change to just happen, we have to be a part of it. Each person can figure out what that means to them, but it is important for all of us to be engaged. The simple act of choosing only to buy from responsible companies, to shop locally as much as possible and to be thoughtful about purchases makes a difference.
On a personal note, while in college I did not put any thought into what I wore. I was so concerned with my studies, that I did not want to spend an inkling of time contemplating my wardrobe. I did not see the value in caring about my appearance. That seemed shallow to me. What mattered was what was inside of me.
That all changed when I studied developing countries and I learned about Ghandi. One of the lessons I took directly from Ghandi’s book is the importance of our outward appearance. The morning after I read that passage I decided to wake up a bit early, wash my hair and wear something other than work-out clothes. Since that day I have found that feeling good about my appearance helps me in other aspects of my life. I began to feel more confident socially and this helped me significantly when it came time to look for work in the “real world”. Now fashion is a way for me to cultivate my image as a small business owner, and an individual. I chose styles that reflect my creativity while choosing fabrics and brands that reflect my values.
So on this Thanksgiving holiday I am thankful to Ghandi for setting me straight. When he said “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” he was not just talking about voting and volunteering. The daily decisions we make about the clothes on our back and the food we eat are just as important.
Shannon Glasheen, a local designer, makes the old new again.
B.Y.O.B
Sustainable Tip of the Week- Bring your own bag
If you haven’t heard the facts about the plastic bag issue, it’s worth investigating.
- According to the EPA, over 380 billion plastic bags, sacks and wraps are consumed in the U.S. each year.
- According to The Wall Street Journal, the U.S. goes through 100 billion plastic shopping bags annually. (Estimated cost to retailers is $4 billion.)
- Plastic bags are made of polyethylene
- Polyethylene is a petroleum product
- Production contributes to air pollution and energy consumption
- Four to five trillion plastic bags are manufactured each year
- Americans use over 380 billion polyethylene bags per year
- Americans throw away approximately 100 billion polyethylene bags per year
- A plastic bag can take between 500 to 1000 years to break down in the environment.
- On average, we use each plastic bag for 12 minutes before discarding it. It then can last in the environment for decades.
- Plastic bag litter is lethal in the marine environment, killing at least 100,000 birds, whales, seals and turtles every year. After an animal is killed by plastic bags, its body decomposes and the plastic is released back into the environment, where it can kill again.
Until now Germany, Australia, China, and Uganda are some of the countries that have banned, or are working towards banning plastic bags. Although the U.S. has not banned plastic bags yet there are several companies taking a responsible approach to the issue.
What can we do? Say goodbye to plastic bags and say hello to stylish cloth bags…
EcoVixen made in the U.S from recyclable cotton. Left. ” You don’t want to return as a bag do you”?… Don’t mess with Karma. Right. I’m not made in China. Made in the United States…and proud of it.
For a proud and responsible Bostonian. A product of Sea Boston USA made from 100% Cotton Canvas.
ECOBAGS EarthTone Cotton String Bag Set. These colorful cotton string bags are great to store away in your purse, great for your produce.
Verde Bags were created by Gina Sample as a stylish statement against plastic grocery bags.
Happy Bags has a wide variety of bags with fun designs on them, some of them are even made from recycled water bottles.
Mini Maxi Shopper. Lorelei has this one and can vouch for how efficient it is. “I keep it in my purse because it can fold up to be a wallet sized pouch, and when I need it come grocery time, it’s there.”
This concludes our sustainable tip of the week. Tune in next week for more!
Sustainably yours
Nathalie Zegarra
The D2E tribe
As we evaluate this past year and look forward to the next, it is nice to see some photos from the inaugural D2E. As one exhibitor said upon leaving on Sunday night, “I have found my tribe.”
Without doubt there was a positive vibe in the air throughout the weekend. All of the exhibitors, attendees, speakers, chefs and volunteers were on the same wave length. We all wanted to learn, talk, taste and move forward into a more sustainable world. We each want to make a difference, and we can. So below are just a few photos that we managed to collect. We will post more – and I will continue to blog about our own findings on how we can all make little changes, one at a time, that will make a big difference for us all.
Enjoy the photos!
Re-boot for the New Year
One way a fashionista can conserve rather than consume – the local cobbler.
While taking stock of my wardrobe I noticed that my boots needed some TLC. So rather throwing out the old so I could buy some new, I brought them to my local cobbler. This is one of the little things in life. It sounds silly, but I felt all warm and tingly inside knowing that I was bringing some business to a neighbor and extending the life of my beloved boots that have served me so well over the years.
Some background: I decided when I turned 30 that I would not buy cheap shoes. I have a pair of boots from 1999 and two pair from 2006 (I fell for the “buy one get the second for half price”). They were not cheap, but I wear them often and now they fit like a glove.
Cost: $60.00 for four heel repairs, adding protective rubber and a polish to top it off. That is significantly cheaper than a new pair of leather boots.
Conclusion: I have no intention of hanging up my boots! I am almost officially in the bragging zone – next year my black round-toed boots will be ten years old. That definitely qualifies as bragging rights over a fair-trade shade-grown latte with my girlfriends. At the 1369 Coffee Shop, of course. Buy local!
Unwanted Catalogs
What to do with unwanted catalogs? I have always had two romantic visions of what I would do with these invasions of my mailbox.
1. Art – I will make collages or some form of paper art and become a self-sustaining paper artist that works only with found objects.
2. Leisure – I will sit down with a glass of wine and flip through the pages of all the catalogs, ordering up whatever suits my fancy.
As you have probably already guessed, neither of these is going to happen any time soon. So into the recycling bin they go!
I think back in 1999 I bought a pair of hiking boots from the Campmor catalog and they ended up not fitting me very well, a bit too tight in the toe area. Due to my busy lifestyle, I never got around to returning them so now my sister-in-law wears them when she is walking her very cute dog, Roxy.
I’m okay with all of that. I am happy to live my busy life and go to work each day to help plan D2E. To be honest, considering how seldom I actually go shopping, it is a real treat for me and I like to go into the stores to feel the fabrics, flip through the books or sit on the furniture. Call me old-fashioned, but I love the experience. So if you are like me and each time you get a catalog in the mail it goes directly into the recycling bin – I have news for you. Catalog Choice is an on-line service that will cancel all of your catalogs for you. When I get a catalog in the mail I rip off the address info where my customer number is. Then I log into Catalog Choice, find the catalog that I want to cancel, put the information in and before you can say “recycling is fun but consuming less is bettah” I am done.
Hope this tip helps!
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